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Experts say corn oil phytosterols are natural cholesterol nemesis
Wilmar has just settled in China's global R & D center in Shanghai, China organized the first application of plant sterols in fats and cardiovascular health of the international seminar, which attracted 143 domestic and foreign famous experts and scholars. Experts have used rigorous scientific evidence, from various angles reveals the role of plant sterols health?? Phytosterol widespread in nature among the various plants, vegetable oil, nuts, Beans Grains are rich in phytosterols and food, including corn germ oil in the highest content of plant sterols. The chemical structure of plant sterols and cholesterol similar to that in the body in the digestive process and compete for intestinal chylomicron cholesterol, thereby reducing the absorption of cholesterol; same time, it can increase the expression of ABC transporter protein family, thus inhibiting the absorption of cholesterol intestinal mucosa .
It is understood that in 1991 China's first bottle from a small Package Cooking oil ?? Jin Long Yue Blend Oil Off the assembly line, to start small package edible oil in 1996 increased steadily year by year, in ten years, Chinese consumers are not only abandoned oil in bulk and small packages entering the era of refined oil consumption, but also to enjoy the full market competition, and constantly enrich the edible oil products caused by a variety of delicious and nutritious?? both a variety of single species of edible oil vegetable oil, and all kinds of multi-oil kind of cooking oil, can easily achieve the requirements of nutrition experts: a "single species of fatty acid oil constitute a different, have different nutritional characteristics, and should be changed frequently the type of cooking oil, edible variety of vegetable oil. "
However, with the constant improvement of modern living, chronic diseases, especially cardiovascular disease is also more and more intrusion into the crowd. From the Chinese Centre for Disease Control and Prevention data show that prevalence of adult dyslipidemia and 18.6% (2.9% of hypercholesterolemia), and another 3.9% of the human blood cholesterol increases the edge. Prevalence of dyslipidemia in the elderly are similar, little difference between urban and rural areas. The Centre proposed six strategies to maintain a healthy heart, the first of which is "to reduce Diet In cholesterol and saturated fatty acid intake, "another as" the daily added food ingredients beneficial to heart health benefits. "To provide people a day as about 70% of the important fatty acids Food , The nutritional role of edible oil is of particular concern.
Lipid metabolism, according to world-renowned expert Richard? Aasland professor, has more than 2400 of the clinical studies have shown that plant sterols reduce cholesterol, thus preventing high blood lipids. Phytosterols is safe, natural cholesterol nemesis. The Chinese Centre for Disease Control and Prevention, Nutrition and Food Safety By Professor Xu Haibin the "plant sterol esters and experimental study of high blood lipids," the report also fully verify the above point of view, through his domestic animals and human studies come "is an effective cholesterol-lowering plant sterols active substances. Intake or supplement sufficient quantities of plant sterols to help reduce the incidence of coronary heart disease population. "
Vice chairman of the Chinese Nutrition Society, Journal of Nutrition, Professor Su Yi-xiang study found that 41% of our residents plant sterols from cereals, 40% from vegetable oil. Natural foods that lower doses of plant sterols with biological activity; if intake of corn oil containing 150mg phytosterols, can be detected by its cholesterol-lowering effect. Therefore, the choice of food rich in plant sterols, even low levels can also play a role in lowering cholesterol.
Learned that the famous Yihai in grain and oil producers group, with their irreplaceable deep R & D advantage, once again played a pioneering and leading role in the industry, the Ministry of Health in 2007 approved the "New Resource Food"?? Plant sterol, applied to the edible oil products, by the end of May this year the first production of useful new products cardiovascular health?? Jin Long Yue phytosterols corn oil, the core demands of population 40 to 60 years in the old. Soon after in the industry rise to a "catfish effect."
About the Author
I am Hardware Wholesale writer, reports some information about galvanized pipe fitting , flexible hose manufacturer.
On a 1980 Yamaha DT175 can you put a YZ125 fatty pipe on it?
or if i was to buy a aftermarket pipe how would i what do i look for?
Hey Matt,
Simple answer,,,,
For a Direct-Fit Bolt-On deal.....
NO,it wont fit.
Primary "Problem" is the Exhaust Flange at the engine.
DT's have a 2bolt Flange on the Headpipe which Bolts to motor.
YZ's all have a SLIP FIT & Spring-Retained connection.
You would have to either:
* Use the YZ Exhaust Port Flange,,,and I dunno how that fits onto a DT Cylinder---MAYBE directly,Maybe Not?
OLDER YZ's flanges have a better chance of fitting--I'd assume???
*Maybe have to Modify a YZ exhaust flange to bolt-on to DT engine,,,Drill,Weld??
*Fabricate one from Scratch,,or find something "adaptable".
Weld & Drill most likely required
*Transplant The Header/Exhaust Connection between the YZ and DT pipes,,,,Welding again probly required
None of that is too extreme or difficult....
but it DOES take some Welding/Fabrication.
If YOU can do it,,or have a Buddy who can help,,Great.
If Ya gotta take it somewhere to get welded,,,
You can get everything hacksawed and lined-up,Fitted and marked ,,,then any Muffler Shop,Car Body Shop,,many Bike Shops,,,etc,etc can weld it Cheap and easy and Quick for you
So even though it's NOT a direct Bolt On fit,,,
and DOES require more than making a simple bracket or redrilling a mounting hole,,,,
It's fairly Cheap and Easy to ADAPT it to fit
.......................................................................................................
But that ain't "end of subject",,You may not even be interested,
I'll type it out anyway
Ok,,,this is complicated...No gaurantee I can put it into some kinda order so that it makes better sense.
1st thing,,,Your Factory Pipe IS a genuine Expansion Chamber.
Just 4~5 years Earlier,,Your exhaust was considered "AfterMarket Hi-Performance Pipe"
In Fact,,,,Your actual Exact Pipe that's on your DT was used on
Yamaha 125MX & 175 MX the year before.
It IS the Hi-Performance "upgrade",,,Yamaha Factory Race Pipe.
DT=Street Legal Dirt Bike
MX=OffRoad High Performance
YZ= Works Racer Replica
So as far as Exhaust System TYPE / STYLE,,,,You are already where ya are wanting to go with the FATTY.
The Technical Difference between Yours and the Fatty or any Aftermkt Pipe is in the TUNING.
Mufflers and Expansion Chambers are 2 different things
Early 70's DT 's had plain street Mufflers.
Late 70's Yamaha began to use actual Expansion Chambers.
That alone is a Big Jump,,,,into genuine Hi-Perf Exhaust.
Yet,,,there's a Infinite Variety of Tuning Combinations among Expansion Chambers.
-Stock Bikes,Slight Modded,,Full Race
,Torque Pipes,Drag Race,Road Race,Mid-Range,Top Speed,Street race,Motocross, and Lots of other Blah,Blah,Blah.
E.C.'s can be designed/tuned to do ANYTHING ya want.
So in Your Case,,,You'd be Changing YOUR existing genuine,actual Race Exhaust,,,,,to the Fatty-for example.
"All" You'd be getting would be a Different TUNING.
But not the big leap such as upgrading from a plain muffler to a E.C.
For Example ,On a '72 CT-1 175 Enduro,,your bike's predecessor,,,,That Had a plain muffler.
Changing to the "Fatty" would be a sorta Double Jump.
1)To a Hi Perf Expansion Chamber from Stock plain muffler
2)Then Beyond that To a Certain,Specific "upgrade" TUNING of that particular E.C.
Point I'm trying to make is,,,
In the purest sense,,You dont actually NEED an upgraded Exhaust,,,Your bike CAME with one/already HAS one.
IF You had a '72,'75 or whatever and wanted Better Power,,
Then You would REALLY NEED to dump their Stock Muffler,and get a "Real Pipe"
I'm NOT saying "dont waste your time & $$$" on a pipe,,
Only saying that You are Closer than you may realize to being OK on your Exhaust System.
Lots of aftermarket pipes ARE better in several ways than Factory Pipes,,,,
so it becomes a matter of changing a Good Pipe to a BETTER pipe,,,or a Different Pipe better suited for a particular application
...........................................................................................
"TUNING" of a Expansion Chamber's Design
A 400 MX Bike's exhaust Wont work on a 80cc engine,,,
or Vice Versa.
But only Because of DIMENSIONS such as Length and VOLUME mostly.
Much,Much of an Exhaust's running characteristics are a matter of GEOMETRY and RATIOS /Relationships.
So Beleive it or not,,,
a 400exhaust can possibly be even Identical to a 80cc exhaust.
But ONLY in terms of Geometry and Ratios.
It's the DIMENSIONS and VOLUME which are necessarily going to be Different.
That's Not confusing or contradictory as it sounds,,,,though it does sound odd to some folks.
It's saying this:
A 12* Tapered Cone,,,is a 12* Tapered Cone.
Whether it's the size of your finger,,,or as big as a Skyscraper HiRise building.
The GEOMETRY is the Same.
The Dimensions and Volume are Different.
So a Pipe for an 80 and one for a 400 CAN Easily be "The Same" GEOMETRICALLY,,,,,,,but at same time be DIFFERENT in their Size/Dimensions.
Think of a PICTURE of an exhaust,,,and Zooming In/Out of the view.
Geometry stays Same,,,It the same Angles and Proportional Ratios & relationships,,,,,but it gets "bigger/smaller"
Another important point about Expansion Chamber Design is this....
They Do NOT begin on a "Clean Slate"/"Blank Sheet".
Each Aspect has a RANGE of specs.
Designers CHOSE from within that Range.
Kinda like using LEGO Blocks,,,They'll make "ANYTHING" ya can imagine.
But you're still LIMITED to the LEGO's specifications.
Ya can make a Spherical Object,,,Or a Tapered Tower,,,
but Not a perfect round ball or straightwalled Cone.
Pipes have SET of Numbers,,,and you can Mix & Match to near infinite combinations.
But,,,Ya GOTTA use Only numbers from the Set.
What all that means in "real world" is that to a Large Extent,
2 stroke exhausts have a large degree of "universal fit" to them in terms of FUNCTIONALITY.....in How they work and influence the engine.
A Pipe's Specs can be applicable to a BUNCH of different engines,,,and Engine Sizes.
And it's Weird to see this----
It's NOT a simple List of What Bikes A Certain Pipe's SPEC's will work on.
It FADES,,or Blends across a RANGE of applications.
On one end of the list,,,it's a Torque Pipe for a certain number of engines.
Then it fades into a range of "Overal Ideal Pipe" for some engines.
Then beyond That,,,it becomes a Hi Rpm /Peak- Power pipe for SOME engines.
Physically INSTALLING the pipe is a whole different matter.
That's just "mechanics & fabrication"
But as far as Design & Running Characteristics,,,,"One size fits MANY".
And,,"MANY sizes fit One"
On YOUR 175,,,,
It's actually,really and truly "Just a BIG BORE 125".
So most of the Engine's Dimensions and specifications which are used to Base the Math Formulas upon ,,which Pipes are designed from,,,
Is the SAME.
A BASIC pipe design for Your Bike has NO Idea whether it's for a 125 or 175.
Granted there's a Bunch of "Jiggle Room" in the formulas.
Yamaha has Always used Exact Same Pipes on 125 and 175.
One for the Enduro's/DT's,,,,,Mufflers.
and one for the MX Versions....ExpChambers.
In Later years,,,they used SAME PIPE on 125/175 Enduro And MX.
ONE pipe on 4 different bikes.
2 Different Engine Sizes,,
Each with 2 Different States of Tune.
Extreme YZ Pipes WILL be LOTS Different than 125/175 DirtBike Pipes.
But the Baseline Formula and it's Preliminary Result are the Same.
Those results are then Tweaked and tailored to Optimize the Pipe for Certain Apps and Desired Performance Results
Only on the YZ's did they begin to install Highly Specialized pipes which are tuned to a Narrower range to better suit Specific Criteria.
(**NOTHING more Miserable Gutless plonkin' along thru Tight Woods than a damned YZ,,,,
But flip side of that is,,,Not Much pulls Harder at Extreme Top End than a YZ.
THAT's the Trade-Off,,,and PIPE Design is a Major Co-Conspirator in that action)
.................................
So,,,Your question of "Can you PUT....."
Must be split into 2 parts.
#1,,"Will it FIT?"....>>>NO,not Directly,,,but it Can be adapted with some reasonable effort.
#2,,,"Will it WORK?"....>>>Sure it will. BUT a YZ Pipe is Tuned to serve in a dramatically different application than a Stock DT-type engine.
So there's NO Tellin' if it will actually PERFORM up to Your Personal Expectations.
Even when Fresh Designing a New Pipe from Scratch,,,it's RARE,RARE for a "Perfect Pipe" to come straight off the drawing board.
Almost Every instance requires actual Real-World testing and ADJUSTMENT to get closer to the desired results.
And even a "Custom/Aftermarket " YZ Pipe,,,even a KNOWN & PROVEN really Good One,,,,
Would be replacing a really Pretty Good FACTORY PIPE on a DT125/175.
What's Common in such instances is that there's Not So Much any Huge Gain in Power,,,
but more a matter of shifting around the Power Band.
Changing What RPM at which the engine begins to pull hard,,,and to what RPM engines ultimately pulls before it's power begins to decline from "over revving"
Freaky-Azzed YZ Pipes are SUPPORTED by a YZ's
HUGE Carbs,,
Extreme Port Flow,
Extreme Intake/Reedvalve Flow,,
High Compression,
LightWeight Flywheels,
Lightweight Ignition Rotors,
Very Close Ratio Transmissions.
It's all rather symbiotic---they all "Depend Upon" each other for their own Optimum Function & performance
YZ's are VERY radical motors,,designed and built to yield Max HP at very High RPM's.
With almost NO consideration given to anything below MID-Range RPM running characteristics.
DT's are OPPOSITE.
It's like comparing Athletes,,
Which is "better",,Power Lifter or Sprinter?
No grounds to compare.
A "Puny-Azzed" DT will SHAME a Monster YZ all the way back into the truck,,,,
when running out in 0~20mph Tight Woods,Swamps or Marsh,..loose rocky climbs,etc....muddy/rocky water crossings,,slippery hills and banks,Mid-trail Trees every 5 feet,,and NO trail,,just Bar-High Grass and Brush.
But if the YZ happens upon a pipeline Right-of-way,,
It'll be in Next County before the DT can wind-out Hi-Gear.
Just,,2 Totally Different engine set-ups.
That doesn't make a YZ pipe "WRONG or BAD" for even a Stock DT.
But it's almost certainly Not gonna be an Ideal Choice.
Cuz what the YZ Pipes hope to Capitalize upon and Fully Exploit,,,in terms of all the OTHER engine specs and parts,,,just Dont exist in the DT.
You'd get a Boost from a YZ Pipe,,,but all the other players on the Horsepower Team which all mutually support each other for FULL,,big gains,,,,,,just ain't there.
....................................................
If ya just WANT a new Pipe,,,or smashed your Old one and NEED a new pipe,,,or for whatever reason,,,,that's Fine.
If you gotta Have To Cut & Weld to adapt a "NEW/DIFFERENT" pipe,,,
Then You CAN Cut & Weld to MODIFY your existing pipe Just as Easily,,,,and get a surprisingly good result.
2 Stroke Pipes Act a lot like CAMS do in 4 Strokes,,in terms of their basic influences.
Primarily they Change the Power Peak points,,,more so than just generating "more bulk power".
Engine's power measured on a Dyno Chart is roughly some form of HUMP.
As RPM's Rise,,so does power.
Then at some point it flattens out or Slows it's Rise across several RPM.
After it Peaks,,,,Rpms continue to Rise but Power begins to decline..
So RPMS Rise in a Straight Line,,,from Zero to 10,000 RPM,or however high the engine will Rev at MAX RPM.
But POWER,,,
A)Rises,,,
B)goes Sideways,,
C)then Turns Downward.
Like a "Camel Hump" shape.
The POWER PEAK may be 7,000rpm.
But engine May continue to REV to 10,000.
So engine has it's MOST Power at 7,000 ,,,and gets WEAKER after that .
Suppose your 175 makes 15 Hp.
(Actually,,I recall they ARE about 15hp@7,000,,,give or take a little)
It is Only gonna have that 15HP somewhere BELOW Max RPM.
I Think they actually Peak around 7,000....???
So...
15HP @ 7,000
12Hp @ 8,000
10Hp @ 9,000
9Hp @ 10,000
(Just for example)
AFTER the Peak,,,Power FALLS as RPMs Rise.
Raising Power to 20Hp,,,but at same Peak 7,000rpm,,,
Accelerates stronger,,,and can pull a higher gear,,,
But it ain't any FASTER.
And it STILL DECLINES after 7,000.
Power begins Falling just the same as before.
Even with that substantial percenatge Increase in Power from 15 to 20hp,,,
While RIDING You will find that it'd begin to run outa breath at exact same spot.
It would surely accelerate much quicker.
But the FEEL and Mannerisms of When it Starts Pulling and when it tapers off would be the Same.
It MIGHT have enough power left at Upper RPMS to turn a few more revs in High Gear,,,,,but Not Much.
Sometimes it can result in LESS Power way upstairs.
Because of the Focused effort to gain LOWER RPM power
YES,,that's Correct,,,SOME Mods to Increase Power can result in a SLOWER bike,,,even with a Great Power INCREASE.
Because the Power Peaks at Too Low an RPM,,,and falls off even MORE sharply at elevated RPMS.
Then there's sorta the opposite of above.
If you DONT Increase the POWER any above 15hp,,,
but Instead ,,Raise the RPM at which the Power Peak Appears.....
Then You Got a Faster Motor.
FASTER,,Not Quicker.
Raise it to 9,000 Peak,,vs the 7,000 peak
It becomes "same" 15HP,,,but at 9,000.
See how That Compares to Stock "over-revved" & Fallen -down-to10Hp @ 9,000
Thats a 50% Increase ,,,at Higher Speed
15hp raised to 20Hp is "only a 33% gain",,,at Same speed as stock
If ya LOSE 33% "over revving" Past Power Peak,,
the 20Hp/33% Gain at 7000
Goes right down to 1/3 Less at 9,000
About 13~14 Hp at 9000.
And with any Further RPM rise,,power will fall off a cliff.
Same 15hp, as Stock,,,but Raised to 9000 Peak...
Makes engine pull WAAAY HARDER from 7 to 9000 because Power is Rising from 7K to 9K,,,
and NOT Peaked and Falling from 7,000
20hp,even 25hp,,,@7000,,,Power is FALLING as it revs up higher past the 7,000 peak
Weird as it sounds,,,
2 "same bikes" 15hp bikes
One modded to Raise Power to 20Hp at STOCK 7,000,,
and Other modded to Keep the same 15hp but MOVE it to 9,000
the "Low Power" engine will run away from the more Powerful one.
Cuz the "Low Power" one is ACTUALLY Making More Power at Higher RPM.
When the HI POWER one begins to run outa breath,,,
the LOW Powered one begins pulling Stronger & stronger.
It's STRONGER at Higher Speeds.
A) It will pull a Higher Gear Ratio to Go FASTER top speed
B) It will pull a LOWER GEAR,,,Stronger towards the Upper End of engines Max Rpm Range,,,without running outa breath.
So,,,"Peak Power Numbers" are not as important as WHERE they PEAK rpm-wise,,,and How engine Pulls up to Max RPM.
When it comes to Covering Real Estate QUICK on a bike,,,exact same thing that's "most Important" to Real Estate becomes what's most important to the Bike's Power.
LOCATION.
WHERE it makes it's power has a much greater influence on Total Performance than How Much power it makes.
Get it STRONG at LOW RPMS,,,,and ya gotta fool with the ENGINE PARTS and TUNING to get it dialed in.
Move the Power Up to High RPMS,,,,and Ya can then dial the bike in with $10/10Minute Effort Countershaft Sprockets.
Ya got the Top End power to pull Hi Gears at High Speed,,Plus power RISES as you accelerate.
And it's got the Hi-RPM Power to pull Strong and quick to the end of LOW Gears,,,so ya Go Quicker and FASTER per Gear.
And SHIFTING ,,the RPM falls back onto RISING POWER.
RPM doesn't drop back at HI RPM Shifts onto "Over Revved" FALLING Power on the POST-PEAK Downside of the Camel Hump power Curve.
.......................................
Simplest Mod to Raise Power Peak via exhaust mods is to SHORTEN the pipes "Tuned Length".
2Strokes are Extremely sensitive/responsive to that.
Expansion chamber has 5 Basic Parts
1)Head Pipe
2)Primary Cone
3)Parallel-Walled Center Section
4)Reverse Cone
5)Outlet Pipe
Tuned Length is measured from "Piston" to about 1/2 way down Reverse Cone.
Cone Length is a product of Geometry.
Ya CAN'T shorten or lengthen a Cone without changing it's 2 End Diameters.
So PRACTICAL and Simple Mods to Adjust Tuned Length,,,and Alter the RPM where engine PEAKs are limited to
1)Head Pipe Length
3)"Straight,Center Section"
Shortening Head Pipe has more of an effect at Upper Rpms.
Shorter pipe =SHARPER Boost at Power Peak,,,and more power AFTER Peak
Shortening Center Section reduces VOLUME substantially,,,,and has it's most pronounced effect at LOW RPM's
Bigger Volume ="more low end power",,,,and WEAKER Boost at Power Peak and beyond.
Dirt Bikes can usually use VOLUME better than Power Spikes.
(**RIGHT THERE is the principal behind the FATTY,,,
Wide Angle Cones create Big Diameter Center Section .
Which yields Large Volume within a SHORT Tuned Length)
The Hope is,,,better Bottom End & Midrange from the Volume,,,
Along with a Hi RPM Peak from the Short Tuned Length.
On Your 175,,,they use a VERY LONG header pipe.
When Modifying the pipe to :
*Reduce Tuned Length,,,for More RPM
*Raise Power Peak,,,
*and SHARPEN the Boost at Peak,,,
*And "fatten" the Power AFTER the Peak
That's all very well served by simply SHORTENING the Header Length.
Mechanically,,,on Your particular bike/stock pipe....
Shortening the Header Pipe is Ideal.
The Main Body of Pipe STAYS all in same physical Mounting Position.
And,,NO VOLUME is Lost from Center Section,,,
such as what happens when adjusting Tuned Length by Shortening Middle of Pipe.
So you get a "Big Discount" on the "Cost of the Trade-Off" of LowSpeed vs HiSpeed Power.
By Minimizing Pipe's Volume Loss,,,you save More Low End Power.
....................................................
Look at the "LOOP" in Your DT's Exhaust,,,where it Exits the Engine,,,before it Finally turns UP towards the main body of the pipe.
Pipe goes:
*Straight Oughta engine,,which angles it Downward
*Then goes into a 90*Bend,,which Itself is angled downward
*Then across a short distance
*then another 90* Bend Upward into Pipe
Cut ALL that crap outa there.
*leave the 1st 90* bend on the short section exiting engine.
*Loosen flange and turn that "downward facing" 1st bend,,,,turn it UPWARD at about 45* angle ,,,heading over towards main pipe.
*Use the "scrap 90*" bend you REMOVED to make a 45* Section to connect your "new" Short header thats now turned UP,,,to the Main headpipe.
That not only Shortens Tuned length substantially,,,
It improves FLOW by converting the 90* into a 45*
Think I'm kidding?
Compare Header Length on Your 175 to ANY YZ125,CR125,KX125 pipe......they got next to NO Header Pipe Length.
That's the only way they can get their pipe's Tuned Length SHORT Enough to make a bunch of Power at the Extreme RPM's those motors turn.
Here's an ODD deal with Your Bike.
You may be familiar with Rev Limiters,Restrictors,etc.
Your bike has NONE.
Any Expert will tell you that.
Can't Find it in any Manual or Parts Book.
You can take that bike apart down to Last Nut,Clip,Washer,and unwrap the wiring harness and PROVE there's No Limiter.
But Go Remove HALF+++ Of that "Double Length" Header Pipe and Test Ride,,,,then Guess Again about whether those bikes are "restricted" or not
.....................................
You can Look at Your Bike,,and it's Obvious to SEE the pipe "goes oughta it's way" to turn Down ,,Across,,, then back UP----a path which adds LENGTH.
It Requires CUTTING and WELDING,,,
but You should be able to Use existing pipe for the pieces you need.
Change it from :
(Heavy lines are the pipe,,,ignore the dots)
Out,Down,Across,Up
__......I
.....I__I
Change it TO:
Out,angle Up&Across
.....I
__/
That's a Poor "drawing",,not to scale or in proportion.
But it's Representative.
Note the number of Dashes ___ required in Each to get from SAME "Point A to Point B".
You COULD even Cut the 1st Cone loose from the chamber,,and Rotate it from pointing straight Down,,,to angled-over towards Exhaust Port.
That would not only FURTHER Shorten the distance,,,it would Eliminate All but ONE 90* Angle.
That alone is a Big flow enhancement.
................* Chamber Body
.............../ 1st chamber section
............../ Header Pipe
engine *
(sorta viewd from sitting on bike)
Instead of having to use a 45* Elbow to connect Header to Pipe which is now pointed Straight Down.
If Header and "Down Pipe " dont align front-to-back,,
Cut a section outa Head Pipe from Between the Exhaust Flange and that 1st 90* turn.
.................................................
Here's a Pic of Your Stock Pipe,,,you can see that "swirling" pipe coming outa the engine,,,and how LONG it all is before reaching Primary Cone/Taper section
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1977-79-yamaha-mx-125-175-exhaust-pipe-ahrma_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQihZ018QQitemZ280110960426QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
Here it is On a Bike:
The Front View and Broadside View REALLY show that LOOP of Excess length
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMPLETE-1980-YAMAHA-175-ENDURO-800-MILES_W0QQitemZ110176058322QQihZ001QQcategoryZ10066QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
..................................................
Recall that "125 Pipes ARE 175 Pipes"
And that YZ's,KX's,RM's,and CR's Have Really Short Headers ????
That's to Suit their Extreme RPM range.
So THOSE pipes are "exagerated Short",,,which is CORRECT for THOSE extreme engines.
And ,,That Short Tuned Length is THE major dimension which allows them their HI RPM Power Peak?
Here's some "Visuals" to Compare Your 175's Factory "MX Pipe" to:
LOOK MA!!!
NO HEADER PIPE!
This Suzuki Pipe Best Shows what You wanna change Your 175 pipe Into,,,,
***OUT>Across>UP.****
The Header meets the 1st Cone in Mid Turn,,,and This is a STOCK pipe
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-pipe-rm100-rm-100-rm125-rm-125-ahrma_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34284QQihZ020QQitemZ300157266673QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Here's a More Modern/Advanced Stock 'Zook Pipe,
WAY SHORT Header straight section.
It ENDS at the spring hooks,,,3" maybe?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/motorcycle-nos-suzuki-rm-125exhaust-pipe-1998-rm125-new_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35604QQihZ018QQitemZ280158307818QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Stock,late 80's Kaw.
What Headpipe?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-KX125-KX-125-EXHAUST-MUFFLER-PIPE-1986-1987_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35596QQihZ013QQitemZ230177391463QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
A Kaw Fatty
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-KX125-KX-125-FMF-FATTY-PIPE-99-00-01-02_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35596QQihZ005QQitemZ150167676996QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Stock Mid 80's CR Honda
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-honda-cr125-stock-exhaust-pipe-vintage-ahrma_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQihZ020QQitemZ300158320068QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Early 90's FMF Honda.
Entire Curve is CONE,,header only runs to the (barely visible)
Spring Hooks--it has a black stripe on the header if ya look close
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-2003-Honda-CR125-CR-125-Head-Pipe-FMF-SST_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQihZ015QQitemZ250162020803QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
Now,,,YZ125's
Think they'll be any different than the OTHER 3 Jap MX Bikes?
Stock 04 YZ..
It has almost NONE
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXHAUST-EXPANSION-CHAMBER-04-YAMAHA-YZ125-YZ-125-PIPE_W0QQitemZ270173424042QQihZ017QQcategoryZ35596QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
'79 YZ,,,poor picture,,but you can get an idea
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-YZ125-YZ-125-OEM-PIPE_W0QQitemZ190150188511QQihZ009QQcategoryZ35581QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Here's Fatty's Bro,,,a FMF SST
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YZ125-99-01-FMF-SST-GOLD-SERIES-EXHAUST-PIPE_W0QQitemZ170149418097QQihZ007QQcategoryZ35596QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Here's FATTY,,,an early 2000's model
They Say,,,"Pulls just harder than stock pipe up until 8,000 RPM >>>where it starts to make more power than stock<<<.
From 9,000 to 12,000 rpm it produces 10-12% horsepower more than stock and continues on with an increase to 13,000 RPM."
That's FATTY,,same thing I tried to explain above.
The FATTNESS=VOLUME= Boost in Low End Power BEFORE Peak.
The SHORTNESS= HIGHER RPM PEAK,,and More Power AFTER Peak.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-YZ125-YZ-125-FMF-Factory-Fatty-Pipe-Exhaust_W0QQitemZ140163274060QQihZ004QQcategoryZ35596QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
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Ya GOTTA MOD almost anything to get it bolted on to a DT175.
Very Scarce Few decent pipes available specifically For DT125/175.
It Might have dawned on ya by now,,,,
"Best Deal" is to buy whatever is Cheapest,,,cuz ya GONNA have to Hack & Weld it.
Just scrape off the Kaw/Yam/Hon/Suzi Stickers or whatever.
Or,,,probably BEST for a "Dirt Bike 175" is definitely gonna be to simply SHORTEN that darn "interstate pipeline length" Header Pipe on your STOCK ,Existing Pipe.
You REALLY Dont want it Short as the Freaky-Class 125 Race Bike Pipes.
Just get it Cut/Turned Up at an Angle,,and Connected as simply & easy as You can.
It'll FIT the Bike same as stock,,,No Weird Side Effects like that.
And it'll pull LOTS stronger where it's NOW running outa breath.
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Spend your "New Pipe Money" you'll save by Fixing Your pipe,,,on some Hi-Perf Reed Valves.
MX175 Engine Parts are WAY SCARCE,,,like Cylinders and Heads.
And usually Expensive when they do appear.
If ya ever get a good deal on that stuff,,,
It's WELL worth it unless price is just crazy.
Or,,,a Cheapie , Dumb-Simple Port Job and a little milled off stock head is as good or better than MX Parts
CARBS?
The carbs on the Yamaha Enduros have always been very small.
Besides that,,they are "oem commodity" carbs,,,Not High Perf Carbs.
They function Great on Stock Bikes ,,,but they dont do well otherwise.
Yours is a 24mm carb.
Same size as used on YZ80's,,,an engine less than Half the size of a 175.
Late Model YZ125's are up to 38mm Carbs,,,for "comparison"
Most 125 Motocross Bikes carbs are Too Big for your 175
YZ85's use 28mm Carbs.
That's a Good Size for Your motor,,,and they are Good Carbs.
Jetting wise,,they are Nearly "Bolt-On".
Any Carb will generally always need Main Jet size dialed in
You CAN use a 30mm or 32mm carb.
But the Size of the factory Reed Cage dont really flow enough for any larger carb---Ya Dont Need it Anyway.
The "CATCH" to swapping Carbs is Intake Manifold .
The I.D. of Yours SMALL.
It's made for "the largest model of a SMALL-Sized SERIES" of Carbs.
Making it more/less that Your Stock Carb is the Biggest Carb that will fit in your stock manifold.
Yamaha has a buncha different sizes.
The Flanges are all Different Sizes and Different Bolt Patterns,
and the Carb Mount Holes are all a buncha different sizes .
Almost NONE are DIRECTLY BOLT-BOLT Interchangeable.
Many,Many are ADAPTABLE by simply Re-Drilling the Mounting Holes.
Use Allen Head Bolts to replace the Hex Head Bolts if you happen to need the extra space on a new bolt pattern.
All they are is Rectangle Plates with a Big Intake Hole in the middle,,,,,and a rubber Carb-Mount Spigot Vulcanized onto the metal flange plate.
Sometimes they have "Stuffers" on Engine side ,,,simply rubber wedges,blocks,fingers to help shape AIRFLOW into engine.
If ya gotta Cut them Off to adapt it to fit,,,Oh Well,,,No Big Deal.
Easy to do,,,and has no negative effect on performance that's not surpassed by simply having adapted a Bigger Carb & Manifold.
You can find Suitable Candidates for Carb & Manifold Swaps on Ebay for $50~75/Carb ,,,$10~20 Manifold.
Lots of them have Cable and Throttle included.
"Shop Hard" and have a little Patience ,,,and you can get the deal for maybe $50~75 Total,,under $100 Easy.
Carb,Manifold,Cable, Throttle.
On DT's especially,,Carb Upgrades make a HUGE Improvement overall.
And it DONT have to be a "Yamaha Carb",,,as long as it's a "2 stroke carb" Ya cannot go wrong if it's from a Kaw/Hon/'Zuk.
For Example:
28mm YZ85 Carb & Throttle.
These are configured to be damn -near RUNNABLE As-IS.Might need a main Jet change is all.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-YZ85-Carb-Carburetor-Keihin-PWK-TTR125-CRF150_W0QQitemZ190159489253QQihZ009QQcategoryZ35601QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Intake:
To Adapt a bigger carb.
These DONT "Bolt On" Fit.
The MOD required is simply drilling 4 holes for mounting bolts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-YAMAHA-YZ85-YZ-85-DIRTBIKE-REED-CAGE-INTAKE-BOOT_W0QQitemZ110176594020QQihZ001QQcategoryZ10066QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Here's a better Pic,,,shows the Space available for Re-Drilling a different Bolt Battern.Also the "rubber fingers" which MIGHT hafta be removed---cut 'em off with a razor Knife.
Or,,,carve on them to fit if that desired,,,and close enough fit to be feasible.
Really not needed though.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-YZ85-YZ-85-INTAKE-BOOT-CARBURETOR-HOLDER-02-07_W0QQitemZ270141800031QQihZ017QQcategoryZ35597QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
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I know that's all way beyond the scope of your question
But I assume your interest in a New Pipe is for Greater Purposes than simply Making Noise.
Even a Used pipe will cost you a certain minimum $$$.
And unless it's a pipe SPECIFICALLY for YOUR BIKE
(and "none" of such pipes are really any much better than what ya already have)........
You're gonna hafta Hack it to Fit.
So the message here is,,,,
for the Money and the Effort spent on Swapping Just the Pipe,,,
You can :
*MOD Your Existing pipe
*Add some Hi-Perf Reeds
*Swap the Carb/intake
You'll get a LOT more performance,,,
and it's all Better Suited & More Compatible to Your Bike's existing configuration.
Plus,,with a Little Luck,Patience and some Hard Shopping
You MIGHT be able to "do It All" for Same or Less than just the Cost of a New Pipe alone.
And almost ANY of the "125 Motocross Pipes" that you Could Use,,,,,are NOT really that desirable on YOUR engine.
They're all made to run in an RPM Range that Your motor wont even really reach.
At least ,,get your factory pipe's header Shortened.
It's Cheap,easy,No downside to the mod,,and it ends up nearly Ideal for what your engine needs to run very good.
And Reed Valves too,,,the factory ones are about as flexible and responsive as Concrete.
They function & last fine.
But Perform TERRIBLY,,,open late,close early,and only partially open most the time.
VERY restrictive to Intake Flow,,,and all on an intake system that's small-ish and restricted anyway.
PROBABLY the Best $25~30 you can spend on Your bike.
Cheapest ones on Ebay at this time.
Boyesen #605
about $30 Shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOYESEN-REEDS-605-YAMAHA-YZ80-75-79-DT100-78-MX100-ALL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10066QQihZ003QQitemZ130092009676QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
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NUMBERS???
Ok,,with Stock Gearing and Tires,,
and 7,000 rpm is about where Engine Peaks
7,000= about 62mph
How's your bike Pull in 6th gear FROM 60~65Mph?
Not too damn crispy,I'm sure.
Because.....that's AFTER the POWER PEAK.
As RPMS RISE from 60mph,,,Power FALLS
Not to mention,,,6th gear is "Overdrive"
5000=44mph
5500=48mph
6000=52mph
6500=57mph
7k RPM=62mph<<<< Stock Power Peak
7,500=66mph
8,000=71mph
8,500=75mph
9,000=80
9500=84
How's your bike pull from 70,,or 75 MPH?
While Power is Dropping like a Rock?
I DOUBT it's ever seen 9,000 rpm/80++ Mph in High Gear,,not with stock gearing.
But How about from 45mph to 60mph?
5,000rpm pulling up to 7,000 PEAK,,,while Power is RISING.
I bet THAT range pulls pretty good.
All we can do is Imagine how far "all the above" has raised the Power Peak.
From Stock 7000 to 8500 is realistic expectation
Lets look at Those Road Speeds
Engine Pulls Strong and power RISES from lets say 2000RPM Below Peak.
So,,,6500RPM= 57mph
8500= 75mph
Here's the difference.
STOCK,,your bike begins to get Weak at about 60mph
But it pulls strong from about 45 to 60.
Modded to Raise Power from 7000 to 8500,,,
It will Pull "As Strong" from 55~60 to 75+,,as it Now Does from 45>60.
That's 15mph Rise on Top End Pulling Power Range.
As as with ALL Good Infomercials,,
"But WAIT,,there's MORE!"
The same manners your bike NOW Has,,Accelerating Past 60mph to however fast it goes,,,
It will have Very Similar manners beyond the NEW,HIGHER Peak at 75mph
So,,As Strong TO 75 as it is Now to only 60,,
and as Strong FROM 75 as it is now From 60.
Theoretically,,You should be able to get to 80+
about as quick as you get to 60 now.
And engine will pull LOTS harder and Increasingly Harder,,,,from points where it's NOW beginning to run outa breath
Wanna Fool around Re-Gearing it?
Add 1 Tooth up Front.
Since Peak is 8500 RPM,,,
and it WILL pull to at least Peak with such a modest overgear
That Re-Geared Speed and Raised 8500rpm Peak is a bit over 80MPH.
Engine's GONNA be Loaded by all that,,,,
But is Calcs out to Engine Pulling to 80 mph before Power begins to decline.
Thats vs Stock 62mph point
Most DT175 wont even Go 80mph.
You get yours to Pull to & Peak at 8500rpm,,and it will PULL all the way to 80
Or,,Gear it LOWER.
If it REVS to 8000~8500 NOW,STOCK,,(EVENTUALLY gets there) in Hi Gear,,OverDrive,,,and Over-Revved past Power Peak & steadily weakening,,,
Thats about 70~75 MPH "Top Speed"
Subtract 1 Tooth from Front Sprocket.
At New 8500 Peak,,thats 70mph.
So it not only Pulls Harder due to Power Curve,,,but Now also from Lower Gearing.
It Zooms to 70,,,where it struggled before.
It PULLS with Rising Power TO 70.
Surely it will rev PAST that,,it has Just begun to flatten or turn back down.
9,000=74mph
9500=78
9,000~9500 RPM is "nothing Unusual" for that engine.
The do it all the time when winding out Lower Gears.
So Bike is Geared LOWER by 1 tooth,,,and pulls even Stronger cuz of that,,,and STILL goes near 80mph
Without really stressing/straining it any abnormal amount,,,unless ya run hellouta it all the time.
Notice,,NO mention of Horsepower??
Who Cares,,so what?
ALL a matter of WHERE engine Peaks,,,and Shape of the "Hump" on it's power graph.
But lets see about "Horsepower".
That's a MATH calculation of Torque x TIME,(aka RPM)
Engines make Torque LARGELY based up Displacement X PRESSURE.
Pressure is a result of various EFFICIENCIES,,cylinder filling/air flow,,,combustion,etc,etc
Displacement is a CONSTANT.
Pressure is ,,,damn near a constant.
Especially in Bike Engines,,cuz they're built to run at upper end of range of Max Possible Efficiency
Bike engines sorta somehow "naturally" tend to yield about 1ft/lb Torque per Cubic Inch Displacement.
A 1200cc Hawgmota is 74cid,,,ya can check a gazillion places and see they make Hi 60's/Low 70's ft/lbs torque
A100cc bike is 6 cid,,,they avg 6 ft lbs
125's are 8",,,make about 8ft/lbs torque
a 175 is 10.5 Cubic Inches.
So it "Should" make about 10.5 ft/lbs Torque.
The FORMULA for HORSEPOWER is
(Torque x RPM) divided by 5252= HP.
Recall we beleive your DT175 is 'sposed to be about
15HP @ 7000rpm?
Lets see what the Formula thinks about that
Torque we assume is 10.5,
So 10.5 X 7,000 = 73,500
73,500 Divided by 5252= 13.99 Hp,,,14HP
Pretty darn Close to PUBLISHED 15HP figure,huh?
The "error" is,,,an Increase in PRESSURE due to various Efficiencies.
So that the Displacement CONSTANT is getting Pushed a Bit Harder than Normal,Ballpark Average,,,and producing a BIT More Torque than the "1ft lb per cubic inch" "rule of thumb"
ONLY going up from 1ft/lb:Inch to 1.1 ft/Lb yields a figure of 15.4 Hp
1.05 ft/lbs @ 7,000 =14.7Hp.
Waaaaay TOO Tedious,Expensive,TRICKY to Actually RAISE PRESSURES and Efficiencies.
Your Gas Tank dont have enough Space for all the RACING PARTS Stickers we'd hafta use.
All that stuff is the "Champagne" of Engine Building.
We gonna go with the "MD-20/20 " of Engine Building instead.
RPM's
Same Assumed Torque,,10.5
But Raised UP to 8500 from 7,000.
10.5 x 8500 =89250,,,
Divided by 5252=17 Hp
So it's Risen from 14 @7000 to 17hp@8500
If use the "corrected" Torque Back-Calculated from Factory Figure,,,
and assume ONLY a SLIGHT gain in efficiency..
Then 1.1 ft/lb Torque is the factor.
1.1 x 10.5 CID=11.55
11.55 X 8500=98175,,
Divided by 5252=18.7Hp @ 8500
18.7 HP dont SOUND too impressive on what was a 15HP motor,
But,,,RECALL THE FALL,,,the power drop After 7,000.
Motor maybe making only 9~10HP by time it ever reaches 8500.
So,,,at 8500 RPM it becomes a difference between
9~10Hp and 18~20HP
With STOCK gearing,,,that's DOUBLE the Power at 75mph that a stock bike has.
Which is a lil' more impressive,,,especially at the throttle when ya wanna pull away from 60~65~70mph and speed up a bit
Even MORE Impressive is What Happens going thru the gears.
Shift Stock Bike at 8500,,,and RPMS Fall back to 7,000.
Each RPM it tries to rev Up back to 8500 is "supported" by FLAT or FALLING Power.
7100 has Less than 7,000
7200 has even Less than 7100 had
7500 is way less and getting worse/falling faster
As Bike Speeds Up,,it's Acceleration RATE slows.
It CLIMBS the tach Slower and Slower and Slower.
But with simple Hacksaw Job,,Peaking at 8500...
Shift it at Same 8500 as Stocker.
Fall Back to same 7000 as Stocker.
Difference is Power is RISING from 7000.
And it's Rising at an accelerating Rate towards the Power Peak of 8500.
Each Rpm it rises,,it gets More Powerful.
The Faster it Goes,,,the QUICKER it Gets.
Quicker it gets to "Next few Rpms",,the Faster it Goes
Anyway,,,far as HP,,,it should make 19~20Hp up around 8500~9000 or so.
And go Strong up to an 80~85 Mph Top Speed.
To get to,,,say 25Hp/100MPH would take some Serious and Precise Work,,,and a lot of expense.
NOT impossible,not at all.
But in a very broad sense,,,for all practical purposes such a goal is Unrealistic and yields a result which AINT that useful or very much fun to live with.
Simple,Cheap,Easy Mods of
*Fixin' YOUR pipe
*Adding some Good Reeds
*Adding a Decent Carb,,like the 28mm YZ80
You should end up with a bike that *Looks,Sounds,Starts,Idles, "behaves & lives" Like STOCK,,more/less.
* Dont burn Any(or Very Little) More Fuel,,,unless ya cruise around WFO
*Pulls harder thru all the gears ,,all the way till it quits revving,,,and never really goes Flat from Over-Revving
*Scoots when you gas it in any gear from "half throttle" on Up
*Jumps forward & Accelerates when ya Shift it,,instead of fartin' around and meandering it's way back up the tach.
*Pulls Harder in High Gear,,and to a higher Top Speed
* Is POSITIVE responsive to Gearing Changes,,,both Higher and Lower
Ya Can't expect any HUGE,Dramatic Increase in any of those aspects.
But compared to how your DT runs NOW,,,
First time thru the gears,,
First time ya pop Throttle open from 60mph Hi-Gear Cruise mode,,
You will KNOW your reasonable efforts and expense has been Well Rewarded.
In all Honesty,,I'll be 1st to say that I may be 100% Totally Wrong about the effect of a YZ pipe or any 125Motocross Pipe on Your Bike.
Such is the Nature of 2 Stroke Tuning.
Lots like Hi-Maintenance Blondes.
Ya never REALLY know what they want or will Like till ya Try It and see how they act.
But I just as honestly dont think a YZ-type Pipe will do much for your bike overall.
They're all designed for much further developed engines,,and intended to support a bunch of OTHER stuff which is More-Than a Couple Levels UP from Yamaha's Enduro Engines.
Whatever a DT-Enduro Is or Ain't,, compared to anything else,,
They are STILL Great bikes.
Tuff,Solid,They work well,,and are Lots of Fun.
And they have lots of potential to get some satisfying and worthwhile results,,,without getting crazy,,spending a buncha cash or effort,,or going to any extremes.
Take all this ,,just for what it's worth.
All sorts of ways to go about it,,and everybody has an opinion & their own methods & approach to these sort of matters.
Whichever way ya decide to go,,,I hope it goes Great.
Tags: abs, fatty pipe, fatty pipes, fatty pipes hayabusa, fitness, fmf fatty pipe, fmf fatty pipe jetting, fmf fatty pipe review, health, kx85, mods